Laying at the bottom of a reef off the coast of Similan Island Koh Ha lays a Chinese fishing boat. As I float in these turquise waters I think about it's story...
The whole trip is one of exploration and excitement - a liveaboard through the most famous dive sites in Thailand. We are headed off in in Wicked Diving's Similan liveaboard Parinee to get a taste of real diving.
A liveaboard is exactly what it says it is – a boat that you live in and dive from. For many years they were the preserve of hardened divers looking for challenges in very remote locations, but a few years ago liveaboards started catering to divers who were more interested in the serenity of the reefs and observing the marine life without the hassle of returning to shore each day.
We are are guided by Tuk, a Thai diving instructor who has been working the Similan's for a few years. He is very into his fish (as are all the staff), but his passion lies in the smaller critters that we had never even noticed before.
These stunning Islands are barely accessible to the day boats serving Khao Lak and Phuket. To experience the highlights of the area, and escape congestion on some of the sites - a growing number of recreational divers are choosing to do their diving from a liveaboard.
Dive operators were quick to spot the potential of these divers who were short on experience but eager to taste a new experience. There are now some boats that are super-luxurious, some are very budget and - in the case of our trip - even an ecologically friendly boat.
Many liveaboard virgins are worried about boredom when not diving but with up to four dives a day available, most divers are happy to relax on the sundeck between dives and catch some rays.
In my time aboard the Pairnee, I struggled to read one book, write in my journal or even fill out my dive log. I did manage to log some great dives, sleep a lot, make some great new friends and eat some incredible Thai food, though.
At 80 feet, the boat was big enough to give divers the chance to spread out and it felt very stable, even in choppy seas.
A dive guide can make or break any liveaboard trip. The team on the boat was made up of Tuk (Thai), Ricky (Irish), Therese (Swedish) and Filip (Belgian). They more than made the trip - giving in-depth and entertaining briefings, organizing card games and charades after dinner and giving insight into the whole region and dynamic ecosystems.
While no one expected 5 star luxury - there was plenty to make the trip all the more comfortable. Cabins were air-conditioned, the showers were hot and the food was amazing. There were only 11 guests on the trip (maximum 12) and no dive group was bigger than 4 per guide. They supplied towels and sheets (organic cotton!) as well as the shampoo, soap and conditioner (all biodegradeable). I even won a shirt during charades!
On this trip we also had a videographer - Steff (English) - who did a small lecture on fish and marine life in the area. Using the video footage from each day he helped us recognize and understand a lot more about what we were seeing.
“We find that many of our guests are joining us for the first liveaboard experience.” said Wicked Diving's Operations manager Marcel Bruijs.
“The all-inclusive trips, the convenience to Khao Lak and Phuket and our ecologically friendly operation have opened up diving and liveaboards to a whole new class of divers”
That Chinese fishing boat? It turns out that it was illegally fishing in Thai waters and the government confiscated it. After some cajoling from local dive shops, the dangerous and damaging parts (fluids, lead based paint) were removed and she was sunk 3 years ago. Looking up from the depths as the schools of fish swimming past - I can't help but thank the park rangers for sinking this boat!
